‘My clothes speak for themselves’
Maame Baryeh is the designer behind menswear label Ma:LE and Maame Baryeh London. She is also the founder of Untold, an initiative that provides an alternative platform for designers and artists struggling to get their proverbial foot in the door.
Whilst British names dominate London Fashion Week, the Untold Collective have created a unique way in getting noticed by presenting their own off-schedule catwalk and exhibition at the Foundling Museum. Maame Baryeh talks to Catch a Vibe to give some insight into a seemingly impenetrable industry.
CAV: What’s the story behind Untold?
Maame Baryeh: Untold is literally about untold creative stories. It’s about the vast amount of emerging talent out there in the industry which doesn’t get the opportunity to be seen or heard on a platform that is recognisable by the industry. That’s how Untold was born. It’s also about being collaborative; it’s not just about the designers; it’s about the stylists, photographers, production assistants; anyone who is trying to progress within the industry.
CAV: From your experience, would you say it’s difficult for black and ethnic minorities to break into the fashion industry?
Maame Baryeh: When I embarked on Untold, it wasn’t actually about black ethnic groups; it was always about talented designers who didn’t have a platform, and the financial constraints related to that: not being able to showcase during Fashion week; and not being able to have a show that is of a standard that will attract buyers. It just so happens that over the last three seasons, the designers we have worked with have been black, Asian and from other ethnic groups. So, perhaps it does illustrate that there is a lack of opportunity.
CAV: Who do you design for?
Maame Baryeh: For me, clothing is about how you express yourself; you can tell from someone’s clothes what type of person they are. I design for people that are confident; who are individuals; and aren’t afraid to stand out from the crowd.
CAV: How would you describe your style?
Maame Baryeh: Very individual. My strap-line is ‘be a leader not a follower.’ If a lot more people took that stance they’d be much happier. You don’t have to conform to what society says you have to conform to. You should be bold about any decision, any venture; who’s to tell you it isn’t right?
CAV: Describe your designs for this season?
Maame Baryeh: Ma:LE which was launched in 2007, and which will also be featured in the fashion show, challenges the concept of what men should be wearing, by injecting life into the designs by using bold colour and prints, and quirky knits.
CAV: What do you dislike about the fashion industry?
Maame Baryeh: Sometimes the industry is very pretentious. It’s all: ‘hello darling’ and air kisses, but in reality, you could be working out of your bedroom. It’s also about having a façade, where in fact, you don’t have to be this uber personality. My clothes speak for themselves. I’ll wear sweat shirts or a hoodie if I want to; it doesn’t mean I’m not a fashion designer. You don’t have to be a character all the time, and I think to some extent that’s what fashion at the higher end becomes. At Untold it’s about starting from the bottom up.
CAV: In your opinion, does fashion come from the top or bottom?
Maame Baryeh: The misconception is that it comes from the top, when actually it comes from the designers at the bottom. They’re the ones who’ll be out there seeking new trends; they’ll be down Brixton Market looking at what’s going on at street level. Then you find it on the catwalks and then in the shops for hundreds of pounds. The people, who can afford it, don’t actually know where it comes from.
