Kanaval: Vodou, Politics and Revolution on the Streets of Haiti by Leah Gordon
“Haiti seems to be on a fault line of history”. These poignant and fateful words open the introduction to Leah Gordon’s display of photographic portraits and oral stories, which were written just two weeks before the 2010 earthquake took place. As Gordon points, this unfortunate event may be what finally makes people sit up and take notice of Haiti – its creativity and culture – and of a “genuinely unique place that exists”.
The book visits the coastal town of Jacmel in southern Haiti, where Gordon has visited annually since the 1990’s, to provide a permanent archive and account of carnival culture from the ‘poetic heartland’ of Haiti. Gordon takes you within the streets and behind the masks of performers, it is clear the photographs are unobtrusive – the performers have patiently allowed Gordon to capture their performances and stories. The photographs are interspersed with oral anecdotes from carnival artists and performers as well as cultural and historical analysis.
Much like its present situation, “Haiti’s history is not an easy one but it is a significant and important one” – a tale of genocide, brutal colonialism, revolution and uprising and finally independence. This particular fight for independence is a unique story – Haiti was the first post-colonial independent black-led nation in the world.
This history, culture and revolution is replayed and performed through masks, costumes and narratives on Jacmel’s streets. The photographs display this directly, with surreal, macabre, playful and poetic figures set against the architectural decay.
However, it is as much about life as it is about death and spirit (Iwa), to keep alive long-held traditions and memories. It is both a breath of fresh air and re-awakening from the carnival culture we consume in the west – those well-known but often corporate driven parades in major cities around the world. These photos bring to the fore what may have been forgotten, ignored or never known – that “Carnival is not just a party”, it is also for political and social commentary and keeping history alive.
Even if you lack understanding or know little about the carnival, or Vodou, and even if you never really took notice of this Caribbean island before January 2010, this book provides a mirror in portraits, a way of recovering history and understanding.
The oral stories scattered between the photos are vital in providing this understanding – the performers and artists reveal what’s going on behind the masks and fantastical costumes – true humanity, humility and pride. From the performers behind various characters: the ‘Indian’, ‘Pa Wowo’, ‘Father AIDS’, ‘Long Tongue’, is revealed simple but key messages that comment on the current situation, particularly the failures of government support, of the institutional need to pump money into making a ‘good looking’ carnival for tourists, while artists and ordinary people starve. These stories make this type of carnival even more important in providing a face of Haiti to the world.
It is shocking, sexual and otherworldly. A genuinely unique, authentic and sincere portrait of true Carnival spirit. Following the earthquake, Carnival was cancelled for the first but hopefully the last time. These photos show the spirit that is alive and walking among the people of Jacmel. “Long live Kanaval”.
