Ituen Basi: A Tale of Ankara and Beads

Amidst an array of colourful attire sat fashion designer Ituen Basi aptly sprawled across a lounge chair welcoming her guests in celebration of an accessory line worthy of the buzz surrounding it. Eclectic and whimsical, accessories aplenty- from bowties to bikini tops- were carefully displayed to showcase her creative force. And yet what struck me the most about the event was just how familiar it all seemed, like a gathering of relatives. In the small and intimate setting of Shoki Shakes Bar in London on a Sunday afternoon, gathered a small mass happily delving through the vast array of goods on display with looks of admiration.

Admittedly, this was my introduction to the label, but it seems I was one of the select few who was not well acquainted with the illustrious name and label. Ituen Basi has amassed a fan base that not only reveals her many years in the business, but also rivals many established designers. A household name in her native Nigeria, the label continues to surge and receive worldwide acclaim for her designs- feminine and streamlined silhouettes glorifying ethnicity in a way that is unexpected and never failing. An accessories line could not have come at a better time with the recent rise of all things bejewelled and the fashion world’s fascination with ethnic prints.

Ituen works her magic on the lustrous yet unassuming Ankara creating simple yet astounding effects. From mile long beads, to contoured stretch skirts that complement the surge of nude hues gracing many a catwalk. For those with the comfort of home in mind, bold tiered floor mats and playful key chains show a range in skill. And then there was a turn of whimsy, pint sized dolls dressed from head to toe in traditional gowns draped in miniature beads, a subliminal message to all women of colour if I’ve seen one. Clearly this was an anticipated need to diversify and appeal to the masses, the timeless and modern woman of today, one not necessarily of colour, but one who is ready to embrace the African diaspora and culture in its full glory.

Draped in its entirety in Ankara was likely intentional, Ituen staying true to her signature mark and maybe also a coy and calculated move to gain notoriety as the world once more embraces prints. I for one could not help but wonder what could have come from a little less of the familiar taking a small albeit rewarding risk? Straying from the expected could after all help to silence the critics and claim an entirely new fan base in the process. Perhaps an interplay of fabrics such as a bold hue of satin or a rich cotton could have helped to balance the uniformed Ankara? Or was this simply a case of the old adage ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?

For more on Ituen and the collection check out ituenbasi.co.uk